4/30/12

Well, Lil' Wiggly IS much better with the zorst, but it still needs… something.  We are going to remove the interconnect we built out of a sawn-off 12mm socket and are going to replace it with a proper adjustable lever off of the linkage.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.  First off, the hose DID arrive Friday.  As soon as I got to the shop, I wrapped it in two layers of the reflective heat wrap stuff and secured that with stainless steel safety wire while John jacked the car onto stands.  I crawled under and removed the old hose and slave cylinder.  I was right, we had adjusted it too far and it popped the piston out and locked up.  Unfortunately, it ate the seal in doing so.  We decided to steal the seal from the slave I had removed from the car a few weeks before.  With a new seal on the piston, and a new hose on the housing, I crawled back under again and re-installed it.  I asked John to have a look at the ground clearance to see if he thought it was sufficient.  He did and proceeded to bleed the line for me.  Oh, I readjusted the link while we had it out as well.  The pedal feels pretty good.  We then make the Executone decision to delete the wipers.  Off came the scuttle and out came the wiper motor and linkage.  John did something with the wiring to get it all tidied up and I removed the switch from the dash.  I looked around for a momentary push-button for the headlight/fan/pump interrupter button but couldn’t find one.  I think the one I was looking for is the horn button in The Seven actually.  We decided that we couldn’t put it off any longer and hooked up the battery to try and start the car.  It fired up relatively quickly.  Much better than I expected actually.  We both drove it and agree, I think, that it is going to be drivable once we get it tuned up better.  I mean, it is drivable, but like I said it still needs something.  Now, thinking back on how easily it started from cold, I think I might NOT do the H/F/P button after all and instead put a choke pull cable there.  It will need to be really long to snake around to the front carburetor, and I'll have to relocate the anchor from rear carburetor to front, but I think it will be doable.  I suppose I could do like I did in The Seven originally and make an intermediary between the dash cable and the carburetor cable.  It ain't pretty, but it works.  I'm trying to see if Summit Racing has one but their website is acting weird.  Jeg’s has one for $6.99 but I have a Summit credit card.  If the Summit website hasn’t come up by the time I finish typing this sentence, I will probably just go with the Jeg’s unit.  Nope, Summit is still hosed.  I guess Jeg’s gets the business today.  And we’re ordered.  Could I have gotten it locally?  Probably.  Would it have been cheaper?  Moist likely.  Why did I go ahead and order it then?  Because… shut up, that’s why.  I looked for a master kill while on the Jeg’s website but all they had were the metal “Lucas Style” switches.  Sorry, but I don’t trust anything designed by Lucas, the Prince of Darkness.  I want the simple black plastic Bosch unit with the red key.  Right now I'm not too worried about it, I'll just keep disconnecting the negative battery terminal, but for the long run I want a master kill.  Well, I've got to go set up a Women’s Network thingy in the Viewing Gallery.  I probably won't come back to say more to y'all today.  So… toodles.